pavlova with cardamom custard and wine-poached pears
it's work, but it's worth it!!
Hello!
How is everyone doing? Personally, I have been awake since 3 am. I’m currently “sleeping” in my sister’s room, formerly my childhood bedroom, while home for the holidays. It’s very hot in Florida, and, to be totally honest, it doesn’t feel one bit like the holidays to me (other than the whole “sleeping in my childhood bedroom thing).
In an attempt to try and force the holiday spirit down upon my household, I embarked on an extremely involved dessert project with my sister. I also made this holiday playlist, which is sweet and good and weird and nostalgic and yearning and gay. The dessert was a 12/10. The resulting holiday spirit was, like, a 7.5/10, which, at this point, I’ll take as a win.
I’m not going to lie to you — the recipe is involved. Not hard. Not difficult. But involved. Is it worth it? Absofuckinglutely. Should you want to make it for whatever holiday you’re celebrating, I think you still have time. You can also make it whenever because, well, delicious desserts shouldn’t be relegated to just one particular season or holiday. (Pumpkin pie all year, baby!)
If you are looking for something non-dessert to round out your holiday meals, you might try the party potatoes (easy), the sweet potato and parsnip puree (also easy), or the citrus salad (simple but involved), or miso and ginger pommes anna (medium-hard). If you want a delicious holiday beverage, go for the salted coconut and cardamom hot chocolate. If none of those strike your fancy, that’s fine! I’m sure whatever you have planned is already delicious, so don’t let me distract you.
Before we dive into the pavlova with cardamom custard and wine-poached pears, I would be remiss if I didn’t mention that I just wrapped a little mini-series on the history of cooking competition shows for America’s Test Kitchen’s podcast, Proof. You can listen whenever you get your podcasts, and I know that I’m biased, but I really think you should! It’s fun, and I also put a lot of hard work and research into it — it’s been a minute since I’ve worn my journalism hat, and it was very nice to dive back in for a while.
Ok, that’s enough promo for one newsletter — time for the recipe!
Pavlova with cardamom custard and wine-poached pears
This recipe has five components: pavlova, cardamom custard, wine-poached pears, blackberry compote, and whipped cream. Do not be intimated! You can poach the pears, make the custard, compote, and whipped cream, basically all while the pavlova bakes. The end result is delicious and gorgeous and very worth your time.
Go slow. Take your time. Have fun. Drink a bottle of wine. Make your sister do all the hard parts for you! I’ve broken the recipe up into sections, and they are all in order of what I would do first through fifth, but you can do whatever makes you happy! If you want a little tutorial, here you go.
Pavlova with cardamom custard and wine-poached pears: ingredients
For the pavlova:
6 egg whites (reserve four yolks for custard)
1.5 cups castor sugar (if you can’t find castor sugar, blitz 1.5 cups + 1.5 tablespoons granulated sugar in a blender or food processor for 20-30 seconds)
1.5 tsp lemon juice
1.5 tsp cornstarch
½ tsp salt
For the cardamom custard:
1.5 cups whole milk
½ cup heavy cream
4 egg yolks
½ cup granulated sugar
1 teaspoon ground cardamom (or 6-8 cardamom pods, crushed)
1 teaspoon vanilla
1 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon cornstarch
For the wine-poached pears:
5 pears, peeled
2 cups red wine (I use a drinkable Pinot Noir, but, you know, go with what you like)
1 cup water
¾ cup granulated sugar
2 cinnamon sticks
1 tablespoon whole cloves
4-7 star anise
Zest and juice of one orange
1 teaspoon vanilla
1 teaspoon salt
For the blackberry compote:
1 cup fresh blackberries (I would buy a pint and use the remaining blackberries to decorate the pavlova)
1 tablespoon granulated sugar
2 teaspoons cornstarch
1 cup pear poaching liquid
For the whipped cream:
1.5 cups whipped cream (or whatever amount you have left from the container that you bought to make the custard)
Pavlova with cardamom custard and wine-poached pears: method
1. Pavlova
Preheat oven: Preheat the oven to 300°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and draw a 9-inch circle on it as a guide (if you need it — I just go freeform!)
Whip egg whites: In a clean, dry bowl, beat the egg whites on medium speed until soft peaks form (I use a stand mixer, but you can also use a hand mixer if you don’t have one!).
Add sugar gradually: Increase speed to high and add the sugar 1 tablespoon at a time, beating until the mixture is glossy and stiff peaks form (about 5–7 minutes). The sugar should be fully dissolved.
Add lemon juice, cornstarch, and salt: Mix lemon juice, cornstarch, and salt in a small bowl and then pour into the meringue. Whip for another 20 seconds to combine.
Shape the pavlova: Spoon the meringue onto the parchment paper, spreading it within the circle and creating a slight depression in the center for the toppings.
Bake: Place in the center of the oven and immediately reduce temperature to 250°F. Bake for 1 hour, then turn off the oven and let the pavlova cool completely inside the oven.
2. Cardamom custard
Heat milk and cream: In a medium saucepan, combine milk, heavy cream, and ground cardamom (or crushed cardamom pods). Heat over medium heat until steaming, then remove from heat and let steep for 15 minutes.
Mix egg yolks and sugar: In a mixing bowl, whisk the egg yolks, sugar, vanilla, salt, and cornstarch until pale and creamy.
Temper the eggs: Gradually whisk the warm milk mixture into the egg yolk mixture to prevent curdling. Strain out cardamom pods if used.
Cook the custard: Return the mixture to the saucepan. Cook over low heat, stirring constantly, until it thickens enough to coat the back of a spoon. Do not boil.
Finish: Remove from heat and let cool, then refrigerate until ready to use.
3. Wine-Poached Pears
Prepare the poaching liquid: In a large saucepan, combine the wine, water, sugar, cinnamon sticks, cloves, star anise, orange zest, orange juice, vanilla, and salt. Bring to a simmer, stirring until the sugar dissolves.
Poach pears: Add the peeled pears, cover, and simmer for 20–30 minutes, turning occasionally, until tender but not mushy.
Cool and reserve Liquid: Remove pears and let them cool. Reserve 1 cup of the poaching liquid for the blackberry compote.
4. Blackberry compote
Combine ingredients: In a small saucepan, combine the blackberries, sugar, cornstarch, and 1 cup of the reserved pear poaching liquid.
Cook: Cook over medium heat, stirring, until the blackberries break down and the sauce thickens (about 5–7 minutes). Let cool.
5. Whipped cream
Whip cream: In a chilled bowl, beat the heavy cream on medium speed until soft peaks form.
Assembly
Base layer: Place the cooled pavlova on a serving platter.
Spread custard: Spoon the cardamom custard into the center depression of the pavlova.
Top with whipped cream: Dollop the whipped cream over the top and spread evenly.
Add poached pears: Arrange the pears however you like on top of the custard — you can halve or quarter them if you like first, but I like how the whole pears look!
Drizzle compote: Spoon the blackberry compote over the pears and into the center of the pavlova.
Garnish: Decorate with fresh blackberries and another drizzle of extra compote, and that’s it!
If you made it this far, congrats, you did it! Or at least I hope you did. I promise the next recipe will be a lighter lift (maybe), but in the meantime, I do think this one is worth your time.
As a special treat for those who have made it all the way to the bottom, I will also say that just making the custard and pears alone without the actual pavlova or the blackberry compote is also really, incredibly delicious, so if you want something tasty but less involved, just make those two and call it a day.
I hope you enjoy that little secret and also whatever you’re celebrating right now!!
xoxo,
G